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Monday, 29 April 2013

Cambodia, Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor Part 4

Traffic on  Cambodia's  streets

On the streets of Cambodia you'll most often see some mopeds. Lots of Mopeds! Cambodia is  motorized! Not many Cambodians use the  bicycle  anymore. Which is a shame in my opinion. followed by Tuk-Tuks (at least in  Cities6zgg and touristic places) and every now and then you'll see some big SUV. Often driven by some Japanese or Chinese tourists. But not only tourists rent big cars. It's not as rare as you might imagine, there are many Cambodians driving them themselves. These are the rich people of Cambodia.


The traffic rules in Cambodia are that there are none. Well maybe except for one or two rules of the thumb. First: In Cambodia you drive on the right side of the street. second: Keep an eye on the one driving in front of you! You'll find the traffic in Cambodia chaotic when you come from a western country with strict trafic rules. There are also some traffic lights at some juctions, however, not everyone sees it neccessary to stop when the lights are red, so be careful while crossing a street, even if there is a traffic light.

The positive thing is that they drive reaaally slow in town. So, compared to Bangkok, you can get chances to cross the streets. You'll see that you'll get used to it and sooner or later cross the streets without worries.
At least I haven't seen or heard of any accidents during my stay.



Going out at Night in Siem Reap


In the evenings the 'Nightmarket' of Siem Reap opens where you can buy souvenirs and other stuff. It's open every day of the week and is located next to the Siem Reap River close to the old market. It stretches from the south side of the River to the old market area. Here you can find lots of restaurants and bars where you can spend your evenings and the nights and have some fun. My hostel was really close by so I spend most of my nights in Siem Reap strolling in this area. There is always party on Pub Sgghhgtreet for those who like to drink alcohol and make party.
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When walking along the streets of the old market area, the two most common sentences you will hear here are "need a Tuk-Tuk" or "want a massage". Indeed, you'll hear it so often that you'll wish that they would just shut up and just leave you in peace, so you can simply enjoy your holidays. But the good thing about Cambodians is that they are very nice folks. A simple "no" is more than enough to make them stop bothering you. And they don't get aggressive when you reject their offers. I had some unpleasant experiences in certain countries in the past, so I find Cambodians quite pleasant. Nevertheless, at the end you will just pass by ignoring them as you will definitely be annoyed after a while. Avoiding eye contact is usually enough.

After a long day at the temples you might want to get a massage, as I already implied, massages are offered everywhere. There are dozens in the Old Market area and they are cheap enough to give it a try once in a while to relax your strained  muscles.

There are lots of people offering "foot massages" by  Turkish  doctor fish. It only tickles a little while they nibble at the dead skin of your feet. This costs US 1$ per 10 min. I can't say if it is really good or bad as I've heard controversial things. I don't see any harm in it, however, you should not put your feet in the tanks if you got open wounds, as I'm not sure of how often they exchange the water.



The dark side of Cambodia

The Tuk-Tuk drivers not only offer transport, especially at night they are gonna ask "want cocain", "want lady". Trying to sell you sex and drugs. If there wasn't a market for this stuff, in other words 'money' in it, they probably wouldn't to this kind of  business. That means that quite a lot of tourists must be accepting, must be demanding it. As in Thailand, a real sex  tourism has developed in Cambodia which affects the lives of many women. Check this reportage out to learn more about it:





I'm afraid, even though Cambodia is a really nice country with mostly really nice people, it's also a place with high corruption. There is a high chance that some police man are also involved (But let's be fair in which country are all policeman incorruptible).

You'll also see some children begging on the streets. Luckily, there are not that many of them. Most of them are the children of some scammers who use the children to get money. They apparently made begging their profession. And it appears they produce one child after another to do their dirty work. I'll just assume that those are really the parents of these kids, but who knows. One of the ploys they use is that they send their children, as young as 5 to 6 years old, to the streets. These children themselves carry a baby with them, and the babies, to my impression, all looked kinda drugged to keep them quiet.  Now, these children don't beg for money. Instead they'll ask you for food. So far so good, you mighy think. I'm one of the people who fell for this scam. 'Ok', I said 'let me buy something for the kid' even though I knew better (I don't like giving money to beggars, as I regrettably know that most of them use it for Alc and if it's a kid who is begging then it usually takes the money to its parent, who usually doesn't care for the kid). But in this case it was actual food what the kid wanted. So we went to the next supermarket. I thought I would buy him just some cake or so. But of course, that wasn't the thing he was sent to get. He took me to the shelves with the babymilkpowder and wanted me to buy him two big boxes of it.  Why you ask, well, as I mentioned he was carrying a baby with him to make me feel guilty and it was supposed to be for the baby and his other siblings. At the end I got him the cake I was willing to give him from the beginning and said my goodbyes. Later I saw the kid with other tourists, who got him what he wanted, which he carried to his 'mother'. This woman was sending at least 3 kids out to beg for milkpowder. All of them carrying a baby. One of the following days I saw him again, as he asked me again to get some food, not realizing it was me again. The milkpowder is not really for the children. They get it to their 'parents' who sell it afterwards to get the money. So be aware of this kind of scam.


And a shocking sight for animal activists is the fact that crocodile leather is sold pretty much every corner. There are big stores selling, leather bags, shoes and even stuffed crocodiles of all sizes.



The positive aspects of tourism

Yes there are positive aspects of tourism, which should not be neglected. When you arrive by plane in Cambodia, you first see some spots of lush green when you look down from your planes window. However the more you see of this country while flying over it, the more destruction and devastation you'll see. As in many parts of the world, Cambodia is currently doing the same development as Europe did in the past centuries. Cutting down all of its forests and turning them into fields.  It's really a sad sight, as Cambodia has really beautiful forests. In the near future most of the remaining forests could be gone, too.


Cambodians don't care about their heritage. Neither about their natural nor about their ancient cultural. The old ruins and temples are just a source of money to most of them and just some old piles of stone. The same applies to their forests. Understandable as these people have other worries than us  privileged  westerners. Trying to survive the day is their only . They can't afford it to think about the future.

The only thing that keeps the forests alive and the temples in tact are the tourist who pour money into this country. The famous temples of Angkor belong to the UNESCO World Heritage.


Gap between rich and poor

As in most countries, especially in most  developing  countries there is a vast gap between poor and rich. The average monthly salary of an unqualified Khmer worker is approx US 50$-80$. That shows how much the dollar is actually worth in Cambodia and how much the tourists get ripped-off. By selling only 1 bottle of water to a tourist they already make a huge profit compared to regular workers. That's why many Khmer move to the touristic centers like Siem Reap in order to make good money.

I have met a Frech Cambodian, who gave me some insight to the life of the a Cambodian and the social discrepancies in this country. He comes from a privileged family, having wealthy relatives in Cambodia. Ironically, his parents who have moved to French aren't that rich. He told me that his wealthy Cambodian relatives treat their fellow coutrymen as if they were slaves, so much that he feels ashamed when being around. Understandable when you grew up with European ideals of equal rights. But to his relatives it's very normal and they pay their 'servants' less than what a tourist would give a beggar.
In the section with the supermarkets I wrote that you can get everything you know from home in these shops and a that there are lot's of restaurants in Cambodia. But those are actually only visited by tourists and the wealthy Cambodians. The average Cambodian can't afford this stuff. They can't afford to go out and  have dinner somewhere. The average Cambodian doesn't go out to eat something. They cook most of their food at home and eat it at home. Rice in the morning, rice at lunch and rice in the evening. Plain and simple. 

Part 1         Part 2        Part 3

Saturday, 27 April 2013

Bali - island of the gods - Indonesia

Hello Everyone,

This Blog will get you to the island of gods, also called Bali. I will share my experience and and the mistakes I've done with you. So that you know what to expect from Bali.


Arrival on Bali - First Impression of Balinese people


                  
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I travelled from Singapore to Bali by plane with Tigerairways at the end of March 2013. 
You can get a visa on arrival at the Ngurah Rai Airport in Denpasar,Bali. The visa costs US $25 and is valid for 30 days. Tourists planning on staying less than 10 days in Indonesia can get a visa for US $10. You can pay in different currencies, so don't worry if you don't have US dollars with you.





                              Currency-Converter.com


Right after presenting my passport to the customs officer and officially making  my first step into Bali I was stopped by 3 men in blue uniforms. They wanted me to come with them and check my luggage. First I thought it was Airport security, so without questioning I did as asked. Unknowing that those were so called  "baggage  carriers". I quickly realized that those men were not security. They offered me to carry my bag and help me get a taxi to a hotel. Well, they were quite nice, so I thought: "Man, balinese are quite nice." But of course it was all about the money. And since they were so 'nice' I was  OK  with giving them a small tip. However, after exchanging my money, they asked me to give them 100.000 IDR each. Good thing I realized fast enough that 100.000 IDR equals 8 Euro.
Those people are not official workers at the airport. They are more like vultures, living from the tourists they can  rip-off. I had to threaten them with the police to finally get rid of them. These guys should be banned from the airport as they give a negative first impression of the Balinese people.
So, entering Bali I got my first bad impression of the country and its folks. So be warned!!!

Getting outside of the Airport it did not get any better. You will hear alot of "Hey mister, need taxi?". And it is expensive. For One way to Kuta they charge 80.000 IDR. So they say. But don't let them misguide you. They only try to make a profit of those who don't know what the official local prices are, people like me, who are for the first time in Bali. I suggest that you go to an official Taxi counter and ask them about the official rates for taxi. I found out that it was only 60.000  IDR. Still they try to rip you off. So better have someone or find someone to share a Taxi with. 

Stay hard and consequent, don't jump into the first taxi. And the most important thing, ALWAYS bargain. Try to get the price as low as you can. 80.000 IDR is alot of money in Indonesia, so it is not justified to pay so much. Once they catch your luggage they try to get it as fast as possible to their taxi. Best thing is to find a taxi with a taximeter and tell them to use it. At the end I took a motor bike. It's cheaper and faster in traffic. I started negotiations at 60.000 IDR and got it down to 40.000 IDR.



Accomodation

When I arrived in Bali I was completely lost. I hadn't planned out this part of my journey. Didn't even have a place to stay yet. To use the internet at the airport you need to get a sim card in Indonesia. Luckily, there are restaurants around which offer free internet. So I went to Starbucks and searched for a place to stay. Without pre-booking I went to the hostel and luckily they had a bed to stay. One night cost me 120.000 IDR, breakfast included. You can get much cheaper accomodation in Kuta, however I wanted a nice place to stay and a nice place it was indeed, so I'm gonna tell you the name of it. This is no advertising, just my recommendation. The hostel is called 'grannys hostel'. It's about a half an hour walk from Kuta beach away, but really worth the stay. And a great thing is that they won't send you away if the beds are all booked. If you want you can get a mattress to sleep on for 80.000 IDR. 






Looking for a better place - First Stop Ubud

27.March 2013 - Galungan day in Ubud

I don't know if to call myself lucky or not, as I arrived on the 26th of March 2013 on Bali. I arrived on the local holiday called Penampahan Galungan. It's the preparation day for the upcoming Galungan day. In front of every house a so called "penjor" is erected. A penjor is an elaborately decorated bamboo pole. It represents the place where the hindu gods reside. 

I only stayed one night at the hostel in Kuta-Legian, not because it was bad. It was really great, so that I  returned there on my last night in Indonesia. I wanted to travel and to go to some less touristic places, so I moved on. At the hostel I found 2 other people with whom I went to Ubud the next morning. The driving was offered by the hostel and it cost 60.000 IDR each. Good price for a nice car. G

Once I arrived in Ubud, I looked for an  accommodation. You don't need to book beforehand, you can find many cheap places on-site. There are many affordable bungalows around 100.000 IDR per day. And you can still try to get the price a little down. 

What to say about Ubud? Well, it kind of stands in between the 'tourist' Bali and the 'real' Bali. It is a way more traditional place compared to Kuta (guess every place on Bali is :P).

The Monkey Forest - If you are in Ubud then go to the Monkey Forest. It's really worth it. The entrance fee is 20.000 IDR. As the name suggest, you'll see lots of monkeys walking freely around. And you see these beautiful temples and statues in the middle of this jungle.
















What is Galungan day about?The Galungan Day is the biggest holiday on Bali. On that day all the hindu of Bali celebrate the victory of good against evil. It's a family festival which is often described as the "Christmas" of Bali.









Good to know: It's great to have the chance to see local traditions and ceremonies, however during the holidays, everything gets more expensive at least twice the normal price I was told, especially the transport. So you get charged more than usual and there is still the additional scamming in this country. But it was worth it ^^.


Next stop Padang Bai....and then Gili Islands....

Not finished yet,
So check back later again :)
I will also upload some pictures soon!

Check out Part 2 Here


Cambodia, Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor Part 1

Part 1: First time in Cambodia 

Hello to all, this is the first Blog I've ever written and I'm hoping that you will find it helpful. Here I want to share my experiences which I've gained during my journey through Southeast Asia with those who are interested and give them some advice for their own journey, so that no one does the same stupid mistakes I did. Especially backpackers who travel on a small budget.

First things first. When you decide to start a journey you need to know where you want to go. So make a plan of the destinations you want to visit and the time you are going to visit them. The "when" is probably often neglected but I assure you it is something quite important to consider as depending on the season it could be too hot or too cold, too wet or too dry... or even worse, you might miss some great event. I think you get the point. So check for the best season to visit a certain place while planning the route you want to take. I always wanted to visit the famous temples of Angkor Wat. So this was #1 on my checklist of places I wanted to visit. Originally, I wanted to start my journey in April, however, thats the hottest month of the year in Cambodia with temperatures above 40 °C, so I decided to go a little earlier in mid-March. That's the end of the rainy season. So the forests still look beautifully green.


And the journey begins...

Knowing where I wanted to go, I had to plan the route in order to get there. I started my journey in Frankfurt, Germany. Luckily every Friday there is a direct flight from Frankfurt Airport to Siem Reap Cambodia with Condor Airlines and I was lucky enough to find that out before buying a transit ticket to Bangkok or Hong Kong. The prices are quite good, I paid 390 for a one way ticket (economy class) which I bought 2 weeks before departure. The ticket prices vary from week to week. If you book early enough you can get them even cheaper. So, if you use a search engine to find a flight, don't  forget to check every single day of the week as some flights could only be available once a week or maybe even more infrequent. And I recommend to buy your tickets always on the official website of the airlines you are going to fly with. Search engines like Expedia are great but only to use as a search engine. It's often cheaper to book directly. 
In mid-March it was still snowing in Germany, so I was wearing a sweater, good for me as I had forgotten how cold it can be inside a plane.Lucky me again I had a window seat and a free seat next to me, so I could spread my legs...


Visa, Accomodation and other things

After 11 hours of non-stop flight, I finally arrived at Siem Reap Airport. On the plane you get a card to fill out in order to enter Cambodia, don't worry much about that. You can get the visa to enter Cambodia on arrival at the airport. The visa costs 20and is valid for 30 days. When you enter Cambodia you need to give the card you filled out to the customs officer, he will give you one part of it back, which you need to give to a customs officer once you leave the country, so don't loose it. 

Since I  traveled as a backpacker on a short budget, I had to find a low budget place to stay. Siem Reap is a very touristic place, therefore, there are lots of accomodations available. You can definitely find something looking around on-site. But I can  recommend  you to book something beforehand as many hostels offer a free pick up service. And that's what I did. I searched for good hostel using Tripadvisor and than booked a bed from the original Website of the hostel. So another thing I recommend is that you always book directly and not through some booking sites.   This way you can avoid any surcharges and you can be sure that your booking was a success (in most cases at least :P).
When I got out of the airport my Tuk-Tuk driver was already waiting for me, since I had booked a hostel beforehand and asked them to be picked up. A really nice service and you save up to 4US$ or even more, I'll come to that later.

I don't want to advertise anything here (Sorry for the AdSense :P), therefore, I will not give you the name of the place I stayed at. But so much I want to share with you... the place was really great. I stayed in a 4 peoples mixed dorm, it had  air-conditioning plus ceiling fan. Toilet and bath was separate and part of the 4 peoples dorm, so not shared with other rooms. The hostel had a free to use video room with free videos, a free to use pool table and on top a swimming pool. For those interested also a yoga-studio. And the staff is really nice. And all that cost me only 6 US$ per day breakfast excluded. Also you can get there an all you can eat breakfast for just 2$. Won't get it cheaper anywhere else.


Visiting the temples

I arrived at 6 am in the morning local time, so my room wasn't ready for me yet. So I decided to visit the temples, as I couldn't wait for it. I actually wanted to take a bicycle, however being new in town and still a bit tired of the long flight I decided to take a Tuk-Tuk and to do one of the tours. Well, actually my Tuk-Tuk driver convinced me to and I just could't say 'no'. The tour I took is called the small circuit and it cost me 15US$. My first 'big' mistake to do. Instead of charging to the temples on my own without planning. I should have looked for other people to share a Tuk-Tuk with. Of course,the positive side of travelling alone is that you are independent of others. Yet, 15US$ is a lot of money which could be saved.
The 'Small Circuit Tour' includes the 3 most famous temples of Cambodia, these are of course Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm. I'll write more about them in a different section.

I recommend: Take a bycicle, it costs only 1US$ per day. Or 2US$ and you get a map plus a bottle of water extra. The temples are close to town so you can, effortlessly reach them by bycicle (assuming you have normal physical fitness). I'll come later to the subject of traffic in Cambodia.


My Tuk-Tuk driver invited me to a place where the Cambodian locals eat. There is nothing fancy as in the tourist restaurants. The main dish in Cambodia, as in all of Asia, is rice. Doctors always warn you not to drink unbottled water in countries  like Cambodia and not to eat anything that has been washed with it. Every drink is served with ice in it, so if you order a drink tell them to get it without ice. If you are in good health condition you should be able to  stomach it. I did not get any promblems, but if you want to stay on the safe side, you better refuse it in a polite manner. The Cambodians won't take offence. The Cambodian cuisine needs some getting used to. It's very spicy, even the salads! Everyone should try it for themselves. 


Small bottle, Big bottle - Everything One Dollar 

You've maybe asked yourselves 'why is this guy talking about US Dollars?'. Well, the answer is quite simple, the Cambodians have their own currency, however, they don't like it themselves and see not much value in it. So, the currency actually used in Cambodia is US Dollar. Starting with 1US$. Cambodians don't take any coins, so leave your coins at home. Instead of Cents they use their own money. 4.000 KHR (Cambodian Riel) is regarded as 1US$ independent of the exchange rate. Also, pay attention that your money is in a 'good' state . I once had only 5 US$ left in my pocket and it had a tiny little rip. Just because of that, no one wanted to accept it, so I had to exchange the money at a bank.

Small bottle or big bottle it doesn't matter. If you are travelling around the temples, people will try  to sell you stuff. The only thing you'll be interested in in this heat will be a cold drink.  Always ask for a big bottle, as they will charge you one dollar for it no matter the size of the bottle. It's one of the phrases pretty much everyone of them has memorized: 'one dollar'. 

But you can get things cheaper when you by something at places where also locals buy things. On the street sides there are many people selling food in their own vehicles, which is often charged, oh wonder, less than a dollar. I bought a dozen grilled bananas for just 1.000 Riel. 


Supermarkets - The Saving Grace?


Of course you can get things cheaper in Cambodia. There are shops at almost every corner. But if you want to save some money, you better look for some bigger ones, as they often sell things at lower prices. They really sell everythig and I mean EVERYTHING you miss from your home country.  However, the imported stuff is 2x to 3x more expensive as in your home country.

Water from the fridge is often twice as expensive as the one on the shelf. In less than half an hour your ice cold water will get lukewarm anyways, as it's really hot in Cambodia. The cheapest 1.5L bottles cost 40 USCents and it's good. You don't need to buy a brand water, as water is water. The same goes for your own country. Don't be influenced by advertising. In most western countries the tap water is more than good enough. So no need to produce  unnecessary plastic waste. Of course you are going to want to drink some cold water, so I don't want to discourage you from buying it. Just keep in mind that it will warm up pretty fast. And if you plan on going to the temples it's better to buy the cold drinks directly on-site once you feel like getting one. 

In conclusion, Cambodia isn't as low-priced as you might expect from a Southeast Asian country. Thank the US Dollar!

Here is the link to Part 2

Cheers